Random Access Design

Anyone need plans for a DIY pc cane slicer?

2009-07-26T05:13:00.004-05:00

I have a very good and accurate cane slicer that I made myself. I have been toying around with making a more advanced version of it and I was wondering if anyone else is interested in making their own polymer clay cane slicer.

I can do detailed drawings with a supply list and possibly a link or two with components, for those that can't get them locally.

World’s Oldest Manufactured Beads Are Older Than Previously Thought

2009-07-23T13:30:00.004-05:00

NOTE from Ardie: In case you missed it, we're engaged in a craft that can trace it's history back some 110,000 years! The scientists also believe that bead-making arose independently in many parts of the world.
Here's the link to the article in Science Daily or you can read the whole thing below:
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090505163021.htm#

World’s Oldest Manufactured Beads Are Older Than Previously Thought

ScienceDaily (May 7, 2009) — A team of archaeologists has uncovered some of the world’s earliest shell ornaments in a limestone cave in Eastern Morocco. The researchers have found 47 examples of Nassarius marine shells, most of them perforated and including examples covered in red ochre, at the Grotte des Pigeons at Taforalt.

The fingernail-size shells, already known from 82,000-year-old Aterian deposits in the cave, have now been found in even earlier layers. While the team is still awaiting exact dates for these layers, they believe this discovery makes them arguably the earliest shell ornaments in prehistory.

The shells are currently at the centre of a debate concerning the origins of modern behaviour in early humans. Many archaeologists regard the shell bead ornaments as proof that anatomically modern humans had developed a sophisticated symbolic material culture. Up until now, Blombos cave in South Africa has been leading the ‘bead race’ with 41 Nassarius shell beads that can confidently be dated to 72,000 years ago.

Aside from this latest discovery unearthing an even greater number of beads, the research team says the most striking aspect of the Taforalt discoveries is that identical shell types should appear in two such geographically distant regions. As well as Blombos, there are now at least four other Aterian sites in Morocco with Nassarius shell beads. The newest evidence, in a paper by the authors to be published in the next few weeks in the Journal of Quaternary Science Reviews, shows that the Aterian in Morocco dates back to at least 110,000 years ago.

Research team leader, Professor Nick Barton, from the Institute of Archaeology at the University of Oxford, said: ‘These new finds are exciting because they show that bead manufacturing probably arose independently in different cultures and confirms a long suspected pattern that humans with modern symbolic behaviour were present from a very early stage at both ends of the continent, probably as early as 110,000 years ago.’

Also leading the research team Dr Abdeljalil Bouzouggar, from the Institut National des Sciences de l’Archéologie et du Patrimoine in Morocco, said: ‘The archaeological and chronological contexts of the Taforalt discoveries suggest a much longer tradition of bead-making than previously suspected, making them perhaps the earliest such ornaments in the world.’

Archaeologists widely believe that humans in Europe first started fashioning purely symbolic objects about 40,000 years ago, but in Africa this latest evidence shows that humans were engaged in this activity at least 40,000 years before this.

Excavations in April 2009 also continued in the upper levels of Taforalt to investigate a large well-preserved cemetery dating to around 12,500 years ago. The project, co-ordinated by Dr Louise Humphrey, from the Natural History Museum in London, has found adult as well as infant burials at the site. The infant burials throw an interesting light on early burial traditions as many of the infants seem to be buried singly beneath distinctive blue stones with the undersides smeared with red ochre. By contrast, studies by Dr Elaine Turner of the Römisch Germanisches Zentralmuseum, Mainz, show that the adults’ grave pits were generally marked by the horn cores of wild barbary sheep. Taforalt remains the largest necropolis of the Late Stone Age period in North Africa presently under excavation.

Professor Barton said: ‘Taking our new discovery of the shell beads at Taforalt, together with the discoveries of the decorated burials excavated by Dr Louise Humphrey, it shows that the cave must have retained its special interest for different groups of people over many thousands of years. One of its unique attractions and a focal point of interest seems to have been a freshwater spring that rises next to the cave.’

Malathy's New Blog

2009-07-19T20:10:00.006-05:00

Malathy Kumaran has just started a blog featuring her work. It's called Polymer Passion and it's a visual treat. Here's the link:

http://malsarts.blogspot.com/

Lauren Cole Abrams

2009-07-16T22:52:00.006-05:00

Just in case you haven't seen her work visit Lauren's blog via the link and feast your eyes...,

http://laurenabramspolymerclay.blogspot.com

Her designs range from primitive to whimsical to modern, delicate interpretations of the substantial Bakelite jewelry of 30's an 40's.

Wonderful stuff!

P.S.: Don't let the month pass you by without reading the interview with Malathy Kumaran and taking a look at her work here: http://randomaccessdesign.blogspot.com/

New Artists, New Visions

2009-07-04T19:58:00.000-05:00

Coming Monday, July 6, 2009 the first interview in the New Artists, New Visions series.

This series is in the way of an introduction to polymer clay artists in the making. Most of them are very new to the medium, having worked with polymer clay one year or less.

Most of these new crafters are experimenting with techniques and treatments for polymer clay but, unique styles and expressions are emerging from their work. As they, like all of us, learn, practice and mature in their art we will have new directions and visions to explore.

Please stop by between Monday, July 6th and Wednesday August 5th to discover Malathy Kumaran.

Polymer Clay Transfers for Pale and/or Pastel Images

2009-07-02T03:35:00.000-05:00

This is one of those accidents that ended up a discovery.

First you'll need a toner color copier that you can feed individual sheets of paper into and possibly a bit of privacy. The clerk at the copy shop will not do this for you and some copy shops will not let you make color transfers on their machines, even with the correct paper. It's best to get control of a color copier and do this yourself.

This technique will give you more color saturation than any other technique. It's great for getting clear images from those delicate watery pastel colors that are so beautiful, but so hard to transfer.

Before you go to the copy shop make sure you have at least one sheet full of images you want to transfer. It is important to leave a border of 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch around each image on the sheet to be transferred.

Materials:

a toner-based color copier (This type of machine is found at copy shops. It is not the same as a toner-based laser printer.)

a sheet of Avery color copier T-shirt transfer paper (Others brands might work, but I used Avery.)

a shallow box with a cover or flaps that can be closed, which is large enough to hold the transfer flat (If you're planning to make more than one sheet of transfers get a shallow box for each sheet. No exceptions!)

the best copy you can get of the image(s) you want to transfer REVERSED.

push pins

a very sharp craft knife

one or more sheets white polymer clay rolled out on at least the medium setting of your pasta machine

a clean level work surface, without any air flow from fans, vents etc.,. It should also accept push pins and slicing by the craft knife. (I usually use cardboard.)

At your local copy shop; proceed as if you were just making a routine color copy, but put the transfer paper in the copier wrong side up.

Print your copy on the wrong side of the transfer paper.

Be very careful when removing your transfer from the copier. Do not touch the colored surface. The toner does not adhere to the wrong side of the transfer paper. It will be powdery and can easily be removed by rubbing the printed surface with anything! Quite a bit of the toner powder can be disturbed by blowing or even breathing on the printed surface.

Carefully, put the reversed copy in the box and cover it. Do not let anything touch the colored surface of the transfer paper.

Once you're home, gently lift your copy from the box and lay it on your work surface.

Secure it with several push pins and carefully cut out each image with the craft knife.

Separate the images, then carefully lay your prepared polymer clay sheets, liquid clay side down, over each image. Make sure there is full contact between the image and the clay.

Gently lift and flip each transfer, so that the transfer paper is now face up on your work surface.

Place a piece of parchment paper over the transfer paper and lightly burnish the image onto the polymer clay for a few seconds. This should be done so lightly that the pc is not compressed.

Leave the transfers undisturbed for at least 2 hours, then carefully lift a corner of one sheet of transfer paper from the clay. The surface of the T-shirt transfer sheet should be almost completely free of toner powder and the image should now be transferred to the polymer clay. You can leave the clay in contact longer with the transfer sheet if needed. Timing depends on the brand of toner, temperature and which liquid clay was used.

Carefully trim the sheets of uncured clay and bake according to the mfg.'s directions. These transfers cannot be sanded. The surface of the transfer must be covered with translucent clay and rebaked or covered with Varathane, Future or an acrylic medium, then further finished as you desire.

Donna Kato's Image Transfer technique

2009-06-28T18:41:00.000-05:00

If you have a copy of Donna Kato's wonderful book, The Art of Polymer Clay, Creative Surface Effects and have tried the Epson Photo Paper image transfer technique with disappointing results read this:

http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/Inkjet_Transfers.html

This "new" Epson photo paper has a very thin plastic covering on the image side. I need to find some medium that will adhere to this covering, dry crystal clear and flexible and not react to the temperature and time it takes to cure polymer clay.

Oh, and cost is also an issue. I don't want to pay $50.00 for 4 ozs of some acrylic medium, with a 1 month shelf-life at 67 F., made by biophysicist monks living in Aix la Chapelle.

Transfers With HP Printers & VIVERA "02" Inks

2009-06-28T17:55:00.001-05:00

For the longest time I have been trying to get high-quality transfers from my HP C7280.

I've tried several types of parchment paper and computer papers. TLS and Deko Gel and the Epson photo paper Epson claims isn't new, but doesn't work for transfers like it did before late 2007.

The problem seems to be that some of HP's VIVERA inks are dye-based and some are pigment based. If your printer has the pigment-based VIVERA inks you can use Valerie Aharoni's method http://valerieaharoni.com/2008_12_01_archive.html.

If you're unfortunate, like me, you have dye-based pigments in your VIVERA inks. You can search the HP website and find out if your VIVERA ink is pigment or dye based.

I use the "02" VIVERA ink series from HP they are all dye-based. Now I just have to find some way of getting those brilliant colors off the paper, photo paper etc., and on to a sheet of polymer clay.

I'll be posting the experiments and results here.

Getting a Handle on Your Tools

2009-06-25T04:15:00.000-05:00

Are the grips on your beading/wire working tools worn, loose or just plain uncomfortable? Here are a few answers to these problems.

1. Grip tape. Yes, that's right these tapes are made to be used on tennis rackets, hockey stick handles or bicycle handlebars. Google it and you'll find prices ranging from $2.99 for basic hockey stick handle grip tape to over $20.00 per roll for Italian-made gel padded handlebar grip tape. It's soft, provides a good grip and with proper application will provide a very comfortable grip. The less expensive grip tapes will have to be reapplied from time to time. Shop carefully, some of these tapes have a sticky gripping surface or become sticky when damp. The most usable I've found is tennis racket re-grip tape. It's padded, has a good grip, and is reasonably priced. You'll get enough to re-grip several tools and there are instructions all over the internet, which are easily adaptable to covering tools. You will need to get some glue to secure it, so look for something that is flexible and glues vinyls and plastics.

2. Pipe insulation. Call the local home improvement or hardware store and ask about pipe insulation that is 3/8 in. and smaller. A 'yes' could make it worth your while to take a few of your tools there and see if their insulation fits your tools. Expect to pay around $2.00 for about 4 ft. While you're there get some specialty double stick tape (another $3.00-4.00) to adhere the insulation to your tools if the fit isn't tight. The drawback to pipe insulation is that it's usually coated with a fire retardant. Try to find some that isn't.

An alternative to pipe insulation is foam tubing. Look for it at places that specialize in mobility/independent living for the elderly or online. You should be able to get a package of six 12 in. pieces for under $15.00 online. Try here:

http://www.lifesolutionsplus.com/colored-foam-tubing-p-420.html

http://www.allegromedical.com//daily-living-aids-c519/cylindrical-foam-tubing-1-yard-p217016.html?engine=nextag&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=feed&CS_003=9076073&CS_010=8ab281020bb66dff010bb6a2acad3952

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ANOYZS/ref=asc_df_B001ANOYZS835574?smid=A3FTKNZ9RHYKG2&tag=nextag-hpc-mp-delta-20&linkCode=asn

If you have arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome or other nerve damage foam insulation and/or these foam tubes can be hand-saving products.

3. This is my usual answer to to the need for new and/or more comfortable tool grips for anyone not needing very soft and/or extra padding:

There are several products available like Dip and Grip, Plasti Dip and Truck Bed Coating that will all put a coat of plastic on the handles of your tools. For added comfort make sure you can dip the handles several times to build up more and softer insulation. Expect to pay around $8.00 to $15.00 for these products and for sizes to range from 8 ozs. to 1 qt, depending on the product. If you decide to use truck bed coating get the softest one and make sure it doesn't have the non-slip surface, otherwise you won't get a smooth finish. Note that this product only comes in black and is a harder plastic that will not give the softer, rubbery grip of the products made especially for the task of dipping tool handles, which come in several colors. Call your local auto parts store, or home improvement store for these products before you resort to the internet.

* Using more than one color of tool dip can id your tools easily at the next workshop.

* The softer coating products can also be put on the jaws of your pliers to eliminate scratches and teeth marks on soft or color coated wires and cured polymer clay. There's no need to buy special plastic fittings for pliers jaws or a specialty jewelry tool dip. When it wears, just remove the old coating and redip for more non-marred beading and wire-wrapping.

*These softer coating products can also be put on mandrels, to secure a polymer clay bead for turning on a lathe.

Happy claying,

Ardie

Preparing Lace for Making Impressions in Polymer Clay

2009-06-24T04:46:00.000-05:00

Have you ever tried to capture the delicate patterns of lace on polymer clay, only to be disappointed in the poor quality of the impression? Maybe the lace was too delicate or you ended up with lace fibers clogged with clay and a rough impression.

Here's a way to reinforce delicate laces and minimize the thread lines of thicker laces. Applying several layers of craft glue will make delicate lace impressions bolder. It can also fill in the areas between threads in thicker laces, giving you a smoother impression. It is also possible to trim most of the connecting threads in laces, giving an airier look to the impressions.

The next time you want to capture the intricacies of lace for one of your polymer clay projects try this:

MATERIALS:

a piece of lace
water soluble, flexible craft glue like Aileen's
a 1/3 to 1/2 inch medium firm artist's brush
a small container for mixing
a small amount of water
a popsicle stick or plastic spoon for mixing
a sheet of waxed paper or silicone coated parchment to use as a work surface

1. Lay your piece of lace flat on the paper work surface.
2. Estimate the amount of glue you will need to coat the lace on one surface only. Put this amount of glue into the small container.
3. Add 1/3 that same amount of water to the glue in the container. (3 parts glue to 1 part water)
4. Mix well with the popsicle stick.
5. Use the artist's brush to coat the lace with the glue and water mixture.
6. When the lace is completely coated on one side; make sure it is soaked into the fibers of thicker laces, lift the piece of lace up and reposition it on a clean and dry area of your paper work surface.
7. Let it dry completely.
8. Wash the brush, mixing container and spoon.
9. Turn the lace over and repeat the process on the other side.

This works best if you put at least 3 or 4 coats of the glue and water mixture on each side of the lace. It isn't an exact science. Put as many coats as you feel necessary to reinforce very thin lace and/or minimize fiber lines on thicker laces or achieve the results you want. Be careful to let each application of the glue and water mixture dry completely. Don't over brush and remove the previous application of the glue mixture when applying additional coats.

You should now have a piece of lace that can go through your pasta machine easier , because it is now flexible instead of floppy plus, very thin, delicate laces are now reinforced, thicker and will make a better impression.

A brushed on coat of glycerin makes a great mold release on the lace.

Happy claying,

Ardie

Until Then...,

2009-06-23T20:20:00.001-05:00

Since I'm pretty much at a stand still until I get my camera and photography set up back I thought I'd set this blog up in preparation and post a few of my tips and tricks for working with polymer clay.

The first trick is already up and I have several more to follow.

As I work in clay and wait for my camera I'll be surfing the net, including blogs for polymer clay jewelry artists and their hints, tips and tricks. I'll post descriptions and links to whatever I find of interest. So, if you happen to stumble across my blog stay tuned for what I hope will be some interesting content.